Friday 27 May 2016

Automotive Detailing


The origin of detailing was Concours d'Elégance, often the competitiveness forced restoration of a vehicle to surpass 'mint' condition. Mint condition would be the state of the vehicle when it originally left the factory. Concours-quality cars often are given upholstery, paint, plating, and mechanical restoration to a standard far exceeding that of the car when it was new.

Auto detailing is the practice of performing an extremely thorough cleaning of an automobile, both inside and out. Paint renovation is the removal of surface scratches and blemishes by 'levelling' the paint with a rotary machine, and the application of a wax or paint sealant to produce a show-quality level of detail. 

It can be practiced for personal satisfaction, and it is also performed to prepare a car for a Concours d'Elegance (often shortened to just Concours), a car show that features the appearance of cars. Elements of exterior detailing include claying, polishing, and waxing. Interior detailing involves the cleaning of the interior of a vehicle using vacuums, liquid cleaners, and brushes. Engine detailing involves cleaning the engine bay area of dirt and grease by using degreasers and all-purpose cleaners.

A detailer combines chemicals, equipment as well as knowledge of the materials used in automotive manufacturing (vehicle surfaces). ‘Chemicals’, refers to the cleaning and protection products used, ‘equipment,’ refers to the tools used, for example, random orbital polishers, high-speed rotary polishers, extractors and power washers, to name but a few. Vehicle surfaces require a basic understanding of chemistry and how to rejuvenate and protect each of the many and varied material surfaces, regardless of its specific surface composition making objective observations based upon experience, the results obtained, and adjusting the techniques and products used as necessary. 

Detailing also takes a willingness to experiment, which usually means deviating from the product manufacturers directions, making objectives observations based upon experience and adjusting the techniques used as necessary, always keeping an open mind on manufacturer’s claims for their products.

Cleaning
Is an essential part in the maintaining the appearance of a vehicle; the objective when detailing a vehicle is to make a vehicle look as good as it can. In many cases make it look better than it was when new. Detailing can take a lot of time, but the results are always worth the effort. Proper detailing will also protect a vehicle from environmental hazards that can rob life away from your vehicle. In order to attain and maintain an optically perfect shine, you must protect it from natural deterioration and dullness that occurs over time as well as introducing new defects by techniques like the 2 Bucket Wash Method.

Detailing can be very simple and fun if you use the correct methodologies and products that work. Research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not hype or brand loyalty. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? It is also recommended that you should also verify any information that anyone shares with you. The only way to do this is a consistent three-step routine; Clean, Polish, Protect
Proper Technique
There is no wrong or right answer, particularly when you are first starting out. Once you gain sufficient experience the only right answer is ‘what works for me and meets my detailing goals’. Travelling on a learning curve is not about arriving, it all about finding out about a product or tool and how it works in different situations and on different finishes; the main requirement is often patience and experimentation

Detailing isn't rocket science, but any aspects that aren't intuitively obvious need to be researched and thoroughly thought out. There is no `one correct way' to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized, are what each individual finds give them their desired results, which may or may not be in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If after watching video or reading detailing articles, buying all the tools and products suggested and you cannot obtain similar results. Don’t be discouraged, sure it looks easy, that’s the mark of a true professional who has had many years of experience and practice honing his technique
Using the same application methods and products of one individual may or may not give you the similar results; but it’s always best to adopt your own methodologies by experimentation with different products, after all that half the fun of detailing

Attention to Details
Dependent upon your detailing goals and the areas of concern you would like to work on. You do need to understand some of the basic chemistry behind the materials and finishes used for automobiles to understand how to care for it.

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; the most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material finish is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain (Organic stains, Inorganic stains or Petroleum soils) and what is the material ( Finished or  Synthetic Leather, Fabrics, Wool or Synthetic fibres) you are trying to remove the stain from.

The level of detailing is dependent upon your goals for the vehicle in question and your experience and skill level.

Most neophyte detailers with daily drivers just want a clean shiny car, detailing can go from this to concours level, where the car is judged with white gloves, or a paint renovation were a paint surface is subjected to a 90%+ correction by a professional.

Formulate a detailing plan that is in line with the goals you have for the vehicle, and then utilize proper techniques, combined with quality products will make for a successful outcome.

“God is the details” and it’s often the small things that make the difference between a good detailer and an outstanding one. Once your paint is polished and protected look to the finer details; wheel wells, brake callipers, wheel lug nuts, glass surfaces, tyres and the exhaust tips and the interior: brake pedals, control knobs, instrument cluster, door kick-plates, seatbelts, buckles and retractors.

Detailing equates to- combining detailing knowledge, experience, and applicable chemistry; balanced to provide aesthetics. A detailer combines chemicals, equipment as well as knowledge of the materials used in automotive manufacturing (vehicle surfaces).

 Chemicals-  refers to the cleaning and protection products used, ‘equipment,’ refers to the tools used, for example, random orbital polishers, high-speed rotary polishers, extractors and power washers, to name but a few.

Vehicle surfaces - require a basic understanding of chemistry and how to rejuvenate and protect each of the many and varied material surfaces, regardless of its specific surface composition making objective observations based upon experience, the results obtained, and adjusting the techniques and products used as necessary.

Detailing also takes a willingness to experiment, which usually means deviating from the product manufacturers directions, making objectives observations based upon experience and adjusting the techniques used as necessary, always keeping an open mind on manufacturer’s claims for their products.

·         Do you understand how differing Ph values can affect various materials?
·         Can you identify the various types of automotive leather/fabric/other materials and know how to treat each one?
·         Can you identify the various types of automotive paint; single stage or clear coat, do you understand their differing treatments
·         Do you know what you should protect in an engine bay from moisture?
·         What about all the different finishes used for wheels, and their cleaning / care?

The Cardinal Rules of Detailing
  
1.       Use and understand Protection from Potential Health Hazards, work safe. As in all things, allow common sense to prevail and proceed with due caution

2.       Surface preparation is the most important step to achieving e a flawless finish The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to; so surface preparation is of paramount importance. Any car care product to work the way its intended must be applied to a properly prepared, clean surface.

3.       Be patient when travelling through the learning curves; as some are steeper than others

4.       It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used

5.       Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception to this is glass surface cleaning) apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel.

6.       Always choose the least intrusive product first, it is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.

7.       Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.
8.       It is important to read and understand the MSDS, process specification, and technical data sheet before working with strong acids or high alkaline products.

9.       Build up as much detailing knowledge as possible, learn the correct application methods and pick your products wisely.

10.   Proper washing and paint surface drying, these techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing.


11.   Become educated on what different materials are used in vehicles and how to tell the differences between them

12.   Before using a cleaning product, a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it.

13.   After checking the pH value of the cleaner, always carry out a pre-test spot procedure before using a cleaning product

14.   Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment

A few thoughts
·         Invest in a proper machine polisher to get the most out of your time and effort.
·         Be very mindful of your washing/drying techniques and media.
·         Be ready to allocate a lot of time to keep your vehicle in top shape.

What should a neophyte do to become a good detailer?

Neophyte [: a novice; a beginner in anything]

A good way to start is by doing your own research and reading for more in-depth answers to get a fundamental understanding of WHAT works and WHY it works and a products correct method of application. You’ll be surprised and the amount of useful information that can be gained by just doing simple research

Understanding what products are, what they're designed to do, how they're designed to be used, and the best ways to use them will not only give you better results, it'll save you money as will be purchasing products that have been proven to do what they say they will

Detailing is both "Art and Science." The science includes such elements as chemicals, equipment, and knowledge of vehicle surfaces, industry standards, and customer requirements. The art of detailing is the activity of combining these elements into products and their proper application methodologies that produce an aesthetically pleasing outcome for each specific situation.

Become educated on what different materials are used in vehicles and how to tell the differences between them. Learn about different car care products and how to apply them.

There are major differences in the proper care of different finishes, i.e. single stage paint as opposed a paint system with a clear coat, clear coated wheels as opposed to unfinished, polished wheel surfaces, leather upholstery that has a polyurethane covering as opposed to an unfinished, natural leather

Become active on a Facebook detailing page as they discuss detailing products and their proper application methodology Read and seek opinions of experienced detailers, there is no ‘dumb question’ forum contributors are usually more than glad to help answering questions.

Always remembering to research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice.

Detailing relies on the correct preparation procedures and the correct methodology to obtain pristine results. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used.

Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products they use will seriously limit your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own. I would strongly suggest that you verify any information anyone else shares with you.

Car care chemicals are the most misunderstood component auto detailing, they should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors'. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation.

Learn how to find and read material data sheets (MSDS) the information included aids in the selection of safe products, helping you understand the potential health and physical hazards of a chemical and describes how to respond effectively to exposure situations. Learn how to identify and what is needed to protect you from health hazards and how to work safely

A detailer should be able to answer these questions; what are your procedures for the removal of the following-
1.       ‘Water spot’ damage
2.       Sintered rail or brake dust
3.       Carpet cleaning and what equipment, tools and chemicals do you use?
4.       Can you name the various types of leather, the properties of each and what leather is most commonly used in automobiles?
5.       Glass surfaces (how can you determine the location of any streaking)
6.       Removal of bird excrement and tar spots

I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.

Copyright © 2010 - 2016 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserve

Saturday 21 May 2016

Bird excrement; the most damaging environmental pollutants

Bird Excrement

 Magnified

Bird Excrement

Consists of [: Uric acid, C5H4N4O3 [a diprotic acid, thus in strong alkali at high pH it forms the dually charged full urate ion, but at biological pH or in the presence of carbonic acid or carbonate ions it forms the singly charged hydrogen or acid urate ion as its pKa2 is greater than the pKa1 of carbonic acid] The water solubility of uric acid and its alkali metal and alkaline earth salts is rather low

Solubility [: the property of a solid, liquid, or gaseous chemical substance called solute to dissolve in a solid, liquid, or gaseous solvent to form a homogeneous solution of the solute in the solvent]

Cause - the different types of food ingested by birds affect the composition and quantity of droppings. Chemical aggression on the paint surface is caused by strong organic acids acting for an extended period and exposed to high temperatures and moisture (reactivity).

One of the most serious threats to a paint surface; it's not only disgusting - it's a toxic hazard. Bird excrement contains unpleasant fungi, including Histoplasma capsulatum and Cryptococcus neoformans as well as bacteria, including Chlamydophila psittaci. Migratory birds, especially seagulls are known to spread hard-to-treat infections as they can carry antibiotic-resistant bacteria.
These are known to cause pneumonias as well as systemic infections. Various forms of encephalitis are also associated with bird droppings, so avoid direct skin contact.

Unlike mammals, birds don't urinate; their kidneys extract nitrogenous wastes from the bloodstream, but instead of excreting it as urea dissolved in urine, they excrete it in the form of uric acid. Uric acid, being nearly water insoluble, exits a bird's body in the form of crystals that look like a white paste. That's what those streaks of white paint-like substances are that you so often see on the sides of buildings and splattered on vehicle surfaces, which if left on the surface and is then subjected to reactivity it will result in an indentation in the surface (etching) around the periphery

Bird excrement is one of the most damaging environmental pollutants as they relate to automobile paint as it comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.

Reactivity
[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst]

Be cognizant that an acid is inert until it comes into contact with moisture; any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and moisture that is present (in the form of high humidity, dew and etc.) the more aggressive the acid becomes.

Then you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which forms an acidic oxygen molecule that causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface it should be noted that until this acid is neutralized subsequent moisture and heat will reactivate the acid and allow further damage, as acid requires an alkaline to neutralize it

 This will cause surface etching (an indentation of the clear coat) so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles.  

As urethane clear coat paint is heated by ultra violet radiation, it both softens and expands that same heat dries and solidifies the bird excrement on the paint surface. Once the paint protection product fractures (reaches its melting point) it is no longer able to withstand the acids, which allows them to quickly penetrate the paint matrix.

This will cause surface etching, so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. The longer the excrement remains on the paint surface, and the higher the temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be, and the greater the propensity for paint surface damage

At lower temperatures (> 40.oF or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no surface etching

Catalyzed hydrolytic degradation

Definition [: the damage can range from paint discoloration to the film dissolving completely. Bubbling, swelling and etching are typical phenomena]

Be cognizant that there are no polymers or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.

Paint protection

Most natural contaminants are hydrophilic in nature including bird poop. Automotive clear coats are generally based on urethanes, acrylics, melamine’s, silanes, etc. which are hydrophobic and repel water and other contaminants initially. However as the paint surface gets oxidized environmental contaminants will bond to the surface. Polishing the paint surface removes the oxidized layer and makes the paint surface hydrophobic again for a short period of time.

Waxes (Carnauba and synthetic) as well as polymer sealants might not offer much protection against bird droppings, they will make the surface hydrophobic and minimize bonding of the contaminants to paint. This can help reduce the damage from bird poop and make removal of the contaminants much easier. Besides being very acidic, bird droppings contain enzymes which can break down C-C linkages in automotive paint (See also this article “ Nanotechnology and other Coatings”)

Note: some of the newer ceramic coating products (OPT coatings )rely on a configuration Si-C (SiO2) bond, which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in polymer sealants. Due to the applied coating thickness they are more resistant to the acids found in excrement than a polymer sealant. Notwithstanding, these acids should be removed as soon as possible

Food Sources
Their main food source in summer is mostly insects and seeds, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, and if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)
Birds use gravel to help digest their food, predatory birds (owls, hawks, etc. hunt and kill mice and small animals, so ground light weight bone fragments, sand and grit are some of the major components, which can cause scratching.

Excrement removal
Avoid using a quick detailer (QD) spray or a sealant to flush residue, as they usually contain either carnauba wax or polymers, which will seal in the acid and not allow it to dissipate.
Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed as quickly as possible. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated by moisture and heat.

         Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) will both emulsify and neutralize the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water as soon as is practical is highly recommended.
         1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc. or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
         Glass cleaner (do not use one that contains ammonia; as it acts as an acid accelerant

         Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell ®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc. or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

An automobile paint system is porous; when you add moisture and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly; as the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst (reactivity) each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated and erode the paint matrix

Type of Surface Damage
Identify the type of damage (Type I Surface staining or Type II Surface etching (a concave indentation) Ultra violet (UV) radiation (heat) causes the urethane clear coat to expand allowing contaminates to permeate; the same heat greatly accelerates the corrosive abilities (reactivity) of the acid, for these reasons any acid or alkali should be neutralized (See Acid / Alkali Neutralization)
Verification of the type of surface condition can be diagnosed through the use of a 30X magnifier. Any acid should be removed from the paint surface ASAP; proceed by using the least abrasive products first

Type I [is an off-white non-transparent ‘clouded’ stain] that if left for any length of time that will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (become non-transparent) this is usually inherent with a light surface stain.

Providing it is removed quickly and hasn’t been subjected to reactivity (moisture and heat) this can usually be removed easily, especially if there is a sacrificial coat of wax on the paint
1.      Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2.      Use ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint
3.      Try to dissolve the surface/etched deposits trying one or more of the following;

a)      Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b)      Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c)      Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

4.      Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

Type II [is a mark with surface etching (a concave indentation) around its perimeter] this is usually the result of a stain that has been on the surface for a while and has been subjected to reactivity (the addition of moisture and heat), which produces an acid that etches the paint surface
1.      Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2.      Use ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint
3.      Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
4.      Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface
5.      For PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S - Power Finish
6.      Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
7.      Wipe down the surface to ensure polishing oils are not ‘filling’ and etching has been completely removed
8.      Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper and polish with a finishing polish
9.      Apply a paint protection

Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue, birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface. Once it softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking

Use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle) and allow to react time as this will soften debris and allow it to be removed with a mesh covered bug sponge

Protection
Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish are all acid-based, acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic o they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc.) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.

Optimum Opti-Coat™ is based on a resin pre-polymer that uses a configuration of (Si 14) (SiO2 -silica) bond, which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in polymer sealants. As a consequent it is more resistant to the acids found in bird excrement. It forms ceramic bonds at very high temperatures and will not be damaged by extreme heat and therefore resists oxidation.

Opti-Coat has better resistance to chemicals (acid), scratches and release properties than other automotive coating currently in use. This coating  has a 2-4 µ (microns) applied thickness and a hardness of 9H (Pencil Hardness) when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating like a regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint
Far beyond washing, cleaning and detailing your automobile inside and out, the best preservative action you can take is to cover the car with a car cover. It provides the best protection against industrial fallout (IFO) dust, dirt; ultra violet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation; bird excrement and windblown debris (See also Car Cover Section)

Aves bomb First Aid Kit- use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap bird and insect excrement, dry surface dust, or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches (check contents periodically as heat will evaporate the contents if stored in the car’s trunk).

Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only. For stubborn stains, soak the micro fibre towel and allow it to remain in n place for a few minutes and then wipe away the debris.

Caution - Dispose of any towels or wipes used to remove bird droppings immediately and thoroughly wash your hands, as bird lime can harbour diseases

Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated (heat and moisture). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser) and then apply a paint protection.

Excrement Removal
Be cognizant that the longer the deposit remains on the bodywork and the higher the ambient temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be, and the greater the propensity for paint damage. This type of damage can only be prevented by motorists remaining vigilant and removing the deposit as this pollutant can have a serious negative impact on your paint finish if not removed safely and expediently. Also be aware there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance although they will make them easier to remove

Use the least abrasive product first-
1.      Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)
2.      Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a)      Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b)      Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c)      Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3.      Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner
4.      Use detailing clay to remove any 'hard' surface granules
5.      Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or  Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface
6.      For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)
7.      Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
8.      Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

Bibliography
1.                  Alma Heritage Science – Uric acid from bird droppings
2.                  Effects of Environmental Conditions on Degradation of Automotive Coatings, a paper by Mohsen Mohseni, Bahram Ramezanzadeh and Hossain Yari
3.                  Bond Disassociation Energies in Organosilicon Compounds, a paper by Robin Walsh
4.                  Polymer Basics DoITPoMS - University of Cambridge

I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.


Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved