Vehicle
manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental
contaminants (like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental
contaminants) from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint
system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean
the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a
thorough chemical cleaning and acid neutralization that ensures all acidic
debris is removed.
Surface
contaminants
Before you decontaminate a paint surface or apply a coating you need a
clean surface, Removing surfactants and silicones that are ‘protecting’
previously apply products, be cognizant that most car wash concentrates contain
both surfactants (to ‘wet’ the surface) and silicone oils (to help the products
‘spread ability and provide a shiny ‘clean’ surface)
Superficially-adhered
surface contaminants as the name implies sit above the surface of the paint.
These contaminants become imbedded in the clear coat when the paint is
subjected to heat radiation; they comprise; ferrous oxide (brake/rail dust) paint
residue (oxidation) tree sap and resin, bituminous asphalt (road tar) particles
of road dirt (grit) and grime, carbon emissions from catalytic converters, bird
excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits, calcium or any pollutant
type substance that adheres to your paint surface, sometimes invisible the naked
eye.
As
they are subject to greater abrasive forces than the surrounding surfaces when
a surface prep towel is rubbed over them, they are abraded away and removed.
You may be questioning at this point will the abrasives in the towel affect the
surrounding paint. This can be considerably lessened by selecting the
appropriate abrasive level and using a suitable lubricant. But be aware that
the surface prep towel may induce surface scratches that should be removed by
polishing
Then
why not simply use a surface prep towel to remove all surface contaminants; the
answer is that a surface prep towel can be used to remove surface contaminant,
but a potential problem arises in that organic contaminants (tree resin and
sap, honeydew and insect exoskeletons an), which generally comprise much larger
particulates than inorganic contaminants (rail and brake dust, bitumen (tar),
etc.) and therefore have greater potential to cause surface marring between the
surface prep towel and the paint as the towel is moved across the paint
surface.
Given
that some contaminant residue (acid rain, industrial fallout, sintered brake or
rail dust) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it
makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface
rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint
decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk
of causing surface scratches.
Acidic Contaminants
Identification
Ferrous
Metal -
·
Light coloured vehicles: Small rust orange dots with black in centre
of stain.
·
Dark coloured vehicles: Small white or silver dots with a
"rainbow hue" around the particle. The surface will also feel rough
to the touch.
Industrial
Fallout
·
The surface feels rough to the touch and may exhibit crystalline
deposits.
·
Usually ferrous metal is present, as well as water spots.
Acid
Rain
·
Surface will exhibit irregular discoloured spotting.
·
Dark coloured vehicles will show cloudy or grey spots where the
acids have started to etch the paint.
Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination
Be
cognizant that there are two types of paint contamination, above surface and
below surface. Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to
remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or
by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad.
a) Detailer's
clay - removes paint
surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle,
leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat
(reactivity) is added the below surface particulates act as a conduit and the
corrosion process is started.
Detailer’s
clay is essentially a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive
particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface
and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable
polymer and was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also
useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint.
Detailer’s
clay was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for
removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. It gained
its reputation as a decontamination method because it was mistakenly believed
that it ‘pulled’ brake / rail dust iron particulates from the paint surface.
Detailer’s clay contains abrasives that will only shear any brake dust
particles leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and
heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started.
.
b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous
contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only
way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a
dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint's micro pores to
release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have
developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the
cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage
is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.
Detailers Clay
Detailer’s
clay is made from Polybutene; it was originally invented and patented in Japan
in 1987. Tadao Kadate is generally acknowledged as the inventor of automotive
clay resin for the removal of paint over-spray.
It is formulated with mild abrasives, a common misconception about using
detailer’s clay is that it pulls contaminants from the paint, and if this were
true there would be no need for it to be abrasive. Be cognizant the using a
clay bar can actually add minor imperfections in your paint so it's always best
to follow up with a polish to remove any clay induced micro-marring.
First used by Japanese auto manufacturers on
vehicle production lines and then auto body repair shops, the technology was
passed on to the US market in the late ‘90’s. Detailer's clay is now routinely
used by OEM's, professional detailer's, vehicle auctions and body shops as a
simple, safe way to remove paint over-spray, tree sap and industrial fallout
from both vehicle paint and chrome and glass surfaces
Detailer's
clay and decontamination are two different processes. The abrasives 'shear' the
surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay
(i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint,
which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it
to continue generating corrosion damage
While
clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product
was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot
permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint
decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic
particle and continue the corrosion process
Corrosion
Brake
dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or
their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while
the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface
becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the
vehicle’s paint surfaces.
The corrosive
chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the
metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the
corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results
in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots
(rust blooms)
Environmental
damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree
sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial
fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV) and other airborne contaminants are very
detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of
environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat)
plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs
oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the
paint matrix down to body metal.
Although
present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on
light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are
invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this
is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new
vehicles.
Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage
Stage One- Iron particulates causing
surface staining leading to substrate corrosion
Stage Two - Contaminants have
permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage
Stage Three - Particulates and
corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system
Signs of Paint Surface
Contamination
•
Dark coloured specks
•
Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
•
Yellow stains
•
Small metal coloured flecks
•
Rough texture
•
‘Water spots’ or marks
•
Surface etching
•
Oxidation
•
Paint ‘stains
In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also
helps preserve the vehicle and its resale value
Post
Decontamination / Neutralization
a)
Post
Decontamination or
surface contamination removal: P21S®
Total Auto Wash, can be diluted solution
3:1 and
contains surfactant detergents and d-limonene (citrus oil) a
biodegradable cleaner that can also be used for the removal of tree sap, bug
spatters, bird droppings, engine degreaser, wheel wells, rocker panels, floor
mats and other grimy areas, this safe solvent cleaner will ensure a there are
no surface contaminants
b)
Neutralization:
ValuGard Acid Neutralizer (part of their decontamination system) that is a blend of
acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and
safely dissolves the alkaline salt particles bond with the paint so that they
can be rinsed away. Diluted 1:8 and allow product to remain in place for 5-7
minutes (do not allow product drying on paint surface). Rinse thoroughly and
then dry paint surface
Vehicle
manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental
contaminants (like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other
environmental contaminants) from paint film can cause premature degradation of
the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot
deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished
through a thorough chemical cleaning and acid neutralization.
Surface
contaminants
Based
upon studies carried out by PPG, DuPont, BASF and Sherwin Williams, the average
vehicle's paint system will absorb up to a pint of water into the substrate
when subjected to rain or a car wash.
Superficially-adhered surface contaminants as
the name implies sit above the surface of the paint.
These contaminants become
imbedded in the clear coat when the paint is subjected to heat radiation; they
comprise; paint residue (oxidation) tree sap and resin, bituminous asphalt
(road tar) particles of road dirt (grit) and grime, carbon emissions from
catalytic converters, bird excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits,
calcium or any pollutant type substance that adheres to your paint surface,
sometimes invisible the naked eye.
As
they are subject to greater abrasive forces than the surrounding surfaces when
a surface prep towel is rubbed over them, they are abraded away and
removed. You may be questioning at this
point will the abrasives in the towel affect the surrounding paint. This can be
considerably lessened by selecting the
appropriate abrasive level and using a suitable lubricant. But be aware that
the surface prep towel may induce surface scratches that should be removed by
polishing
Given
that some contaminant residue (acid rain,
industrial fallout, sintered brake or rail dust) are usually highly acidic
and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them
chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive clay
or polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then
rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.
This
system is the most recognized by original equipment manufacturers (OEM’s as
well as their paint suppliers, BASF, DuPont,
and PPG approved chemical neutralization
system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufactures have issued technical
service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use
the ValuGard System for required repairs and
pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs.
Acids
react with ferric iron Fe3+ (rust), ferrous iron (Fe2+) or steel (the metal
used for auto construction) or aluminium. So be cognizant that acidic products
have the potential to start the corrosion process, especially if they become
trapped and not rinsed away
This
system removes, industrial fallout, rail dust, acid rain, oxidation, silicone
and waxes, tar and road grime, tree sap, love bugs and other insects, bird droppings,
and hard water spots. No other paint cleaning method removes paint contaminants
this efficiently. A three step system with a sequence of neutralization and
neutralizing wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust,
hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.
The Acid
Neutralizer expands and enters the paint system and
goes after any acid residues, it’s an exothermic which opens the paint micro
pores to enable the Alkaline Neutralizer. The Detail Wash is used as a paint surface wash, the final step to
neutralize both the alkaline and the acidic. Thus creating a chemical balance
in the paint system matrix (resins binder system, and etc.) these are the
reasons that the car manufactures require the products be used as a complete
system
Acid Neutralizer
Removes
all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime and storage stains. Neutralizes acids deposited on the paint
surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage.
Removes stains and wax build-up and is an excellent pre-wash for body shops -
removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates
Alkaline
Neutralizer
The second step of the Neutralization System, which
deep-cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits. Also dissolves ferrous metal particles (rail
dust) while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily
float away.
Detail Wash
The
third step in our neutralization process, Detail Wash is a fine vehicle wash
solution designed to return the paint to its original factory pH level. A true neutral carwash shampoo not a soap, it
will not strip waxes or sealants and is safe for use on all painted surfaces,
trim and wheels. Excellent for everyday use, Detail Wash produces super
long-lasting suds that remove dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or
sealants. 128:1 super concentrate
The
Alkaline Neutralizer (part B)
removes such a broad range of contaminants that it is in a different category
from the ferrous iron particulate removal systems (Iron X et al) and is therefore one of the best product out
there for ‘everyday’ acid decontamination needs
The
acids used in both Finish Kare and ValuGuard decontamination system are phosphoric and sulphuric
acids, both strong acids that readily dissociate and are very effective in
dissolving the metallic component of brake dust allowing the carbon component
to be rinsed away
A
three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial
fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of
pollutants. I would recommend the use of this system for new or new to you
vehicles as part of your new car prep
Benefits: Leaves paint surface uncontaminated for application of
wax, polish or sealant. Allows for correct repair of superficial paint damage,
reduces buff time on pre-owned vehicles. Thoroughly rinse the vehicle surfaces
with clean water before application as this removes and softens hardened dirt
deposits.
ValuGard
Decontamination System comprises:
1. Acid Neutralizer
- “A” Triethanolamine (TEA) is an organic compound
that is both a tertiary amine and a triol. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic (EDTA)
acid, is a polyamino carboxylic acid is a colorless, water-soluble solid. That
works by causing the paint film to swell, without negatively affecting the
resin system or the pigments below the clear coat and deep cleaning and neutralizing the acids that have entered
the paint film;
This solution removes waxes, storage stains,
and any acids which may have been deposited on the paint surface, , an 8:1
solution concentrate /distilled water; allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before
rinsing.
2. Alkaline
Neutralizer - “B” removes all waxes, sealant,
silicones, road grime, lot stains and storage stains. Neutralizes acids
deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during
transportation and storage. Contains Sulphuric H2SO4 [1] and Oxalic H2C2O4 [2]
acids, that remove alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, (rail dust),
which deep clean painted surfaces so that they can be rinsed away.
As
the instructions dictate, DO NOT ALLOW to dry on the surface
either since acidity continuously increases as the water is evaporated. Also,
as mineral acids are heated in warmer climates, they become more aggressive.
This
step dissolves and/ or loosens the iron oxide particles, and replaces the
plastizers that the "A" removes due to its alkalinity. The plastizers
are part of what creates gloss, elasticity of the clear. They must be replaced
or renewed. The paint system has been subjected to both an alkaline and an
acidic product. This neutralizer must be applied liberally, using a dispenser
bottle, not a spray, which creates two things; first it allows the product to
dissolve and remove the ferrous metal deposits and then continues the deep
cleaning of the paint's pores to remove mineral deposits, etc.
Allow
neutralizer to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer’s clay to remove
contaminants. All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using
this product (Safety glasses, gloves) Avoid generation of dust.
3. Detail Wash - “C” premium 128:1 concentrate car wash solution,
excellent for everyday use, and also the final step in the Neutralization
Process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away once all steps are completed.
OEM
approved by - GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Mazda, Hyundai, Nissan, Renault,
Saturn and Saab.
MSDS:
Notes:
1.
Sulphuric
(H2SO4) acid- a highly corrosive strong mineral acid and can be used as a
chemical synthesis.
2.
Oxalic
(H2C2O) acid - its utility in rust removal agents is due to its forming a
stable, water soluble salt with ferric iron
Application
Directions
Training video - http://www.valugard.net/index.php/data-sheets/videos/?l=english&id=GgEfQZ5MqJM
Three
simple wash steps, no rubbing; see product containers for more details or visit
the web site.
Use
separate wash mitt for products A and C, the use of the ValuGard Dispenser
trigger spray container for products will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum
economy
Automotive
paint is porous, by using an acid solution (A) on the paint surface the
micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded, the acid / water is subjected to an
exothermic reaction (heat is evolved when water and acid mix together) This
means it agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be encapsulated by
detailer’s clay (as opposed to being sheared off, by abrasion)
The
neutralizer (B) then enters the subsurface of the paint film and neutralizes
any caustic compounds generated by ferrous particles that have penetrated paint
film.
Methodology:
Rinse
Completely
rinse vehicle top to bottom.
Remove
excess soil.
Be
certain vehicle surfaces are cool to the touch.
1. (A) Acid
Neutralizer
The
acid mixture comprises
1.
Sodium Laureth Sulphate, or sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES), is a detergent
and surfactant,
2.
Sulphuric a strong mineral acid (H2SO4)
3.
Oxalic is a relatively strong acid, despite being a carboxylic acid (C2O4H2)
and is used as a cleaning agent, especially for the removal of rust or removal
of iron] Oxalic dissolves embedded metallic particles
1.
Mix acid neutralizer- 16 ounces of product to each gallon of water.
2. If
you are using a proportional, simply dispense 1/2 gallon of solution into
bucket.
3.
Using a dedicated wash mitt, thoroughly wash vehicle with solution top to
bottom.
4.
Allow to remain in place 5-7 minutes.
5. Do
not allow solution to dry on vehicle
Rinse/Dry
1.
Rinse vehicle thoroughly top to bottom.
2.
Using a waffle-weave towel, dry horizontal surfaces
3. If
rinse water continues to ’Bead’ repeat Step 2.
2. (B) Alkaline
Neutralizer (Acid Wash)
Phosphoric
acid, also known as orthophosphoric acid [:
a mineral (inorganic acid) having the chemical formula H3PO Used as a rust
converter; by direct application to rusted iron particles, it converts iron
oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.]
After
treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be washed off, leaving a
fresh paint surface. Repeat applications of the acid wash may be required
Using
a clean dry sponge or wax applicator pad, apply Alkaline Neutralizer to all
paint surfaces including roof, hood, deck lid, and the tops of the fenders and
quarters.
Allow
to remain in place 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer’s clay to remove
contaminants (being an acid it will render the clay unusable after use with
this product)
Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle
3.
Rinse/Inspect
Rinse
thoroughly.
Visually
and manually (by touch) inspect for complete removal.
Repeat
if necessary.
4. (C) Detail Wash
(Surface Conditioner)
Mix
Detail Wash-One part product to 128 parts water (i.e. one ounce of product to
each gallon of water).
Wash
entire vehicle using a clean dedicated wash mitt from top to bottom, including
the glass, bumpers, etc.
Repeat
if necessary
5.
Rinse/Dry
Rinse
and dry thoroughly.
Notes:
1.
Always use appropriate personal protection equipment with all chemicals
2.
Never:
(a)
Use on hot surfaces or in direct sun light, do not allow chemicals to dry on a
paint surface
(b)
Ingest chemical products
(c)
Allow products to remain in place longer than is necessary
Tech Tips
1.
Always use separate wash mitt for products "A" and "C".
2.
The use of the ValuGard Dispenser system for products "A" and
"C" will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy.
3.
Other prep or reconditioning operations should be performed during product to
remain in place times for best use of labour time.
Each Kit Contents
(will treat ten to fifteen vehicles)
• One
Gallon of Acid Neutralizer /Product A
• One
Gallon of Alkaline Neutralizer /Product B
• One
Gallon of Detail Wash /Product C
• Two
9x9 Wash Mitts
• One
12 oz. Dispenser Bottle for Product B
• Product
B application pad / Part #VG-IS
•
MSDS for each of the products.
•
Instructions for use.
Product websites:
Automotive
International Inc. - 513-489-7883 / (800)
543-7156 –www.valugard.net
MSDS
-
Note: Thanks to Ron Ketcham (Grumpy) the ValuGard
product formulator, for his valued input on the content of this article
I would like to think that these articles become an
asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals alike, as well as
industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I hope
the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’
and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you
understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you
desire.
I would
appreciate it if you would share this article as it helps other detailers
further their knowledge.
Questions
and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.
Copyright
© 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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